Monday, June 29, 2009

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is the capitol of Cambodia and a good place to learn about the country. We only stayed here for two days. The city isn't particularly photogenic, but it did make for an interesting stop. While in Phnom Penh we visited the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, met a gang of renegade urban monkeys, and learned about the insanity of the Khmer Rouge what the implications of there rule were for the Cambodian people. . . . quite a story.

A note on the Khmer Rouge. . . . its a complicated topic that can not easily be given justice here. The following is what I've gathered in the short amount of time that I've been here. . . . In 1975, around the same time that Saigon fell to the North Vietnamese, The Khmer Rouge, Cambodia's own communist party led by Pol Pot, overran the country and took control of the capitol.

Upon taking control of Phnom Penh, the Khmer Rouge, in what can only be described as complete madness, immediately implemented one of the most radical and brutal restructurings of society in the entire history of the world. There goal was to turn all of Cambodia into an agricultural cooperative dominated by uneducated peasants, whom they considered "pure". The entire population of Phnom Penhn (2 million), and all of Cambodia's other major population centers, were forced to abandon their homes in cities and towns, and live as virtual slaves in "farming cooperatives" where they were subjected to hard labor for twelve to fifteen hours a day and then afterwords participate in public self criticism sessions in which everything they said was recorded and filed away by government officers. There were no exceptions for sick or elderly citizens. Even the city's hospitals were "evacuated." Privacy and individualism of any kind was strictly forbidden. Disobedience brought immediate execution. 1975 was officially changed to year 0. Currency was abolished. Families were separated and assigned to various collectives (slave labor camps.) Society was divided into two classes: "old people" (uneducated poor peasants considered "pure") and "new people" (city and town dwellers who were looked down upon as "polluted"and not trusted by the Khmer Rouge.) "New People" had an especially hard time.

The Khmer Rouge attempted to "cleanse" Cambodia of any and all threats to the revolution. This meant that anyone who disagreed or, in most cases, gave the appearance of potentially disagreeing with what was going on was labeled an "enemy of the revolution" and was promptly detained, tortured, and then killed. The Khmer Rouge attempted to eliminate all educated people, going so far as to execute all of the Cambodia's doctors and replace them with illiterate peasants who were given a three month crash course in medicine.


My impression is that Pol Pot basically wanted a nation of ignorant mindless zombie people growing rice. A Cambodian, about the same age as myself, whom I spoke with on the subject of the Khmer Rouge described them as promoting fairness, explaining that they wanted everyone to be equal, nobody would have more than anyone else. He then quickly added that they shouldnt have killed so many people.

The Khmer Rouge didn't last long, nothing that crazy could. They made it three years and eight months. In that time they killed over 1 million innocent people. From 1976 on, the Khmer Rouge instigated series of unwarranted attacks on Vietnam. In 1978 Vietnam launched a full scale invasion of Cambodia toppling the Khmer Rouge regime in just a few weeks and installing a new government led by former Khmer Rouge army officers who had defected to the Vietnamese. The Khmer Rouge couldn't have lasted much longer anyway. By the time they were toppled they were essentially in the process of eating themselves (Pol Pot was paranoid and was attempting to eliminate potential traitors from within the party.)

To make a long story short, Pol Pot and his followers fled into the jungle near the Thai border where, for the next ten years, they launched guerilla attacks on Cambodia's new government and continued to terrorize the general population. Pol Pot died in 1998 in Khmer Rouge captivityafter his followers turned on him. Trials for a small handfull of Khmer Rouge leaders are currently under way. Other former Khmer Rouge leaders are currently serving in Cambodia's new government. Most former party members are living comfortable lives among the very people whom they committed unspeakable crimes against.


Its hard for me to imagine all that has taken place here in the not so distant past, especially when people all seem incredibly kind and friendly. Everyone I meet is smiling. People here really do seem happy. Everytime I see people over the age of 35 I wonder what they've seen and experienced. I have allot of respect for people here.

Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda: basicaly a walled complex in the city center that is home to Cambodia's King Sihanouke. . . . Cambodia is a kingdom. The complex consisted of the king's residence, a few temples, and some administrative buildings. . . . it was worth taking a look at.





Phnom Penh streets: (They all look the same)



I've met monkeys before, but never in the city. . . . they were all over, like squirrels in Baltimore, and not particularly friendly either.

Notice the monkeys on the roof:


This monkey was a fat ignorant mean bastard! We watched him walk up to a little girl, hiss at her, snatch a pack of cookies right out of her hand and then eat them right in front of her while she stood there crying. . . . I wish I had videotaped it. . . . he only ate one cookie and then threw the rest of the pack on the ground.

stolen cookies:


The following pictures are from the Toul Seng Genocide Museum which occupies a former high school turned "security prison" by Pol Pot's thugs. Between 1975 and 1978 over 20,000 people were held here, tortured during lengthy periods of interrogation, then taken to a location outside of Phnom Penh and murdered. S-21, as the prison was known, was just one of many "security prisons" in Cambodia.




This stupa in Phnom Penh marks the spot where victims from S-21 prison were taken and murdered. It contains over 8000 skulls taken from mass graves that were excavated in the early 90s. Many many more remain in the ground. It may seem unnecesarily morbid to some but I think it really serves to make something that may have otherwise been abstract very real.







Sunday, June 28, 2009

Into Cambodia


Leaving Phu Quoc wasn't easy. I felt like we could have stayed for weeks if not longer. Fortunately, Lisa reminded me, that there was so much more to do. We took a boat to Ha Tien, Vietnam where we then hired moto taxis to take us across the border into Cambodia. Our next stop was Kampot. The trip took about an hour. It was an amazing ride, mostly dirt roads allmost all the way into town. The countryside was amazing, unlike anything I've ever seen before. The sun was setting the entire way. Motorbikes aren't the most comfortable way to travel, after an hour of bouncing up and down on bumpy dirt roads your ass hurts a little, but it was soooooooooo worth it. It wouldn't have been nearly as fun in a car or bus.

Kampot was a sleepy, crumbling little place, full of dilapidated old buildings, many abandonded. (Cambodia is in the process of recovering from the madness of Pol Pot and the Kmher Rouge.) It sounds weird, but it was cool. It oozed charachter. The heat there was intense. Everything, people, dogs, cats, lizards, moved either very slowly or not at all. As always, the locals were friendly. The children took an interest in us.
The following afternoon, we took a trip out to the countryside to visit a cave temple. The temple itself was mildly interesting. The trip there was awesome. Cambodia is a very warm and friendly place. The land is beautiful and the people are as well. . . . Everyone here smiles and waves. Most of the children here speak English and are eager to talk with foriegners. As we approached the cave temple sight, we were pursued by a kid on a bike who wanted to show us around. Once we stopped, kids started coming out of nowhere. . . . next thing we knew, we had a whole gang of very eager good natured young people who wanted to take us up to the cave and show us around. We told them that we couldn't afford to pay them. They insisted that it was no problem. They really were cool kids and we did end up giving them each a dollar before we left. The kids led us through some rice fields, up the suide of a hill, and into the cave. The cave itself wasn't all that exciting, but the views from the top of the hill were awesome.

Afterwords we went back into town, had some coffee, and relaxed. The following day we headed north to Phnom Penh, the capitol.

Vietnam/Cambodian Border:

From the back of a motorbike:







Kampot:

















Another Gas Staion. . . . I might open one like this in Hamden:
On the way to the cave temple:


Our guides:





The view:









Back in Kampot:



Prison. . . . I bet this place really sucks on the inside!